Leek and Potato Soup

The story

Leek and potato soup is a plain blended soup made from two vegetables with a long history in Ireland. Leeks are listed among the vegetables grown and eaten in early Ireland, and potatoes, introduced in the 16th century, became the main food of the poor. Leeks also suit the season: they tolerate cold better than other onions, can stand in the field for an extended harvest, up to six months from planting, and overwintered leeks are lifted the following spring. The method Irish cooks use is simple. Darina Allen, who runs the Ballymaloe Cookery School in County Cork, starts her spring cabbage soup from a base of onion and potato sweated gently in butter under a lid for about 10 minutes, then simmered in stock, blended and finished with a little cream or creamy milk. The chef Declan Horgan uses three leeks to four or five potatoes, an onion and four cups of broth, adds a cup of milk after blending and recommends soda bread on the side. Make a double batch: the base freezes well, and the milk goes in on the day you serve it.