Pão de ló de Ovar

The story

Pão-de-ló, Portugal's egg-yolk sponge cake, is the Easter cake of the north: the Michelin Guide states that between the Douro and Minho rivers the Easter cake is pão-de-ló. Several towns have their own style. Margaride in the Minho and Alfeizerão in Estremadura are both known for theirs, and Ovar has made its version since at least the 18th century.

What sets the Ovar cake apart is its center. The crumb stays very moist, almost creamy, and local writers stress that this does not come from underbaking; the effect comes from the clay pans the cake is baked in, and fans scrape the last of it from its paper with a spoon. The European Union registered Pão-de-Ló de Ovar as a Protected Geographical Indication on August 24, 2016, and only certain bakeries in Ovar may make it under that name.

At home, a regular cake pan lined with tall parchment gives a close result. The batter is mostly yolks and sugar with very little flour, and it relies on a long beating for its lift. Bake it the day before Easter, keep it in its paper, and serve it in wedges with coffee or a glass of port after the main course.