Rödkål

The story

Red cabbage braised with spices is a simple side that does important work on the Swedish julbord: with its acidity and sweetness (from apples, vinegar, and red or black currants) it cuts through the richness of the ham and meatballs and cleanses the palate between bites. It cooks slowly until the cabbage turns almost translucent and deep red and the kitchen fills with the scent of cinnamon and cloves. Although similar dishes exist across Central and Northern Europe, the Swedish version is often more mildly sweet than the German one, with the emphasis on the fresh tartness of apple. In many families it is made a day ahead, because the flavors only grow richer overnight in the refrigerator — practical wisdom that comes in handy when the kitchen has to turn out ham, fish, and five kinds of cakes all at once. For descendants of Swedish emigrants, this is the side dish that rarely gets the attention it deserves, and yet it is the one that makes everything else on the plate sit better together.