Soldaditos de Pavía

The story

Soldaditos de Pavía are strips of desalted salt cod, battered, fried and served hot, a standard tapa in Madrid's bars and taverns. Madrid's tourism office credits Casa Labra, a century-old tavern on Calle Tetuán near the Puerta del Sol, with making them one of the city's classic dishes. The name means "little soldiers of Pavía," and it is usually explained by the strip of red pepper once wrapped around each piece. Madrid's tourism office ties it to 1874, when General Pavía's soldiers dissolved the Spanish parliament and locals saw the reddish tone of their jackets in the fried cod. The story is often repeated but has never been confirmed. Salt cod itself runs deep in Madrid: in the 18th century, when fresh fish could not easily be brought in from the coast, it was almost the only fish in local dishes, and today it is the fish most associated with Holy Week in Spain. Manuel María Puga y Parga's 1905 cookbook is said to describe the dish as popular after Easter. Fry them just before guests sit down, and follow them with a Lenten stew or a big salad.